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AC Repair/Freon

I'm in the same predicament. I had a leak to 0 pressure - nada. Took a chance and had the tech throw in some stop leak and recharge 8 of 10 lbs. That cost me $1K.

I'm 2lbs undercharged so run times are not ideal. Instead of paying the tech at least another $300 - probably closer to $500, I decided to DIY for $90.

DIY
 
Easy to do yourself in a car. Home air not so much.

Yes agree. Unlike most stop leak products, in the HVAC on an old R22 system , stop leak is a great last ditch effort to extend the life of the system. In my case, I know exactly how much charge I (should) need to get it up to spec. I'm not even going to bother with the pressure gauges

On my 25 year old Honda, I do not use stop leak. That I recharge myself - every year it empties out. Every year I jumper the hot pin to the compressor and put in a full load - roughly 2 cans of the R134.
 
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I have had many old work trucks and a few personal cars with slow to moderate leaks. If they started to not cool well or compressor got loud you topped them off. Usually was 1k plus to fix and $10 to $50 per year to keep working well. My last work truck which I bought used in 2012, and now use a a beater/hauler, has just started showing signs, I expect sometime this summer will have to buy a can with lube in it give it its first ever recharge.

The old girl is ugly, leaks oil, and has a bad oil senser but still runs well and is perfect for what I use her for. To be honest I hate to think of letting her go, she was my daily work partner for the last 10 years I worked, and I prefer to drive her over our 2 year old truck.
 
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I have had many old work trucks and a few personal cars with slow to moderate leaks. If they started to not cool well or compressor got loud you topped them off. Usually was 1k plus to fix and $10 to $50 per year to keep working well. My last work truck which I bought used in 2012, and now use a a beater/hauler, has just started showing signs, I expect sometime this summer will have to buy a can with lube in it give it its first ever recharge.

The old girl is ugly, leaks oil, and has a bad oil senser but still runs well and is perfect for what I use her for. To be honest I hate to think of letting her go, she was my daily work partner for the last 10 years I worked, and I prefer to drive her over our 2 year old truck.

I don't put the oil in, just charge. Only because I had the dealership do a full evacuation and recharge before I knew it was leaking. So the oil got measured out exactly to spec not so long ago. It's not clear to me how much oil escapes with the leak. I just roll the dice for now. If the bearings get noisy (or the entire thing takes a dump first) - that's the sign to add oil. Too much oil can be determimental also. But that's a good idea. I have watched videos how to add it directly to the low pressure line without manifold guages, which gets messy in my experience.
 
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